Some watches are designed for jaw-dropping and brow-raising experiences.
Although the majority of novelties we discuss here at WatchJ are more or less traditional pieces, there’s always a place for some pleasant exceptions. Sure, this guys might seem a bit too much regarding some basic ideas of elegance or casual, but such wrist presence and larger than life charisma simply can’t go without our attention. And while such statement mega-watches may appear nearly unwearable and, let’s be hones, almost unattainable in terms of price point, their craziness brings a new dimension to a whole aspect of modern mechanical watchmaking. In other words. horology won’t be that fun without such outrageous extravagance. And hey, 2020 has already pushed the boundaries of craziness so far, we’d soon need to come up with new ones: a perfect time to look at four new pieces from boutique brands who always tend to think different.
The mighty HYT H5 can’t really be considered a brand new watch, however the blue version – even if the colorful effect is achieved with just a bit of blue – looks extremely fresh. As always, the timepiece comes in a king-kong-sized stainless steel case, measuring almost 49x21mm and hosting a trademark fluidic show under its domed sapphire crystal. Only this time the bi-color capillary indication depicts the hours below the current mark via the blue fluid, leaving the future colorless. The three-dimensional multi-layered dial has tons of details worth examining under a loupe and among other things features minutes, seconds and 65-hour power reserve indications – all in a rather traditional sub-dial format. Needless to say, the hands as well as the main capillary time-telling surface are covered with Super-LumiNova and glow in the dark. Transmission between a hand-wound movement and the fluidic module is done via a cam-follower system. The price is EUR 55,000.
The Legacy Machine 101 is a collaboration between two very distinctive brands MB&F and H.Moser&Cie. Call it a stuff of genius or just a pleasant surprise, but their design codes work perfectly next to each other. The domed sapphire crystal reveals a large 14-mm balance wheel mounted on a trademark bridge right at the very center as well as the escapement. That’s obviously the signature MB&F’s part. There’s also a couple of tiny off-centered hands and a 45-hour power reserve indication. No writings, no branding, no scales, just the purity of famous Moser fumé dials. The geometry is so bold, the crown had to slip down to 4:30 to fully counterweight the overall element balance.
Despite being an already astonishing piece of mechanical art, the Legacy Machine 101 takes an extra step in being suitable for various tastes. This 40-mm steel watch comes in green, in red, and in two types of blue, although all four are very limited editions. And of course, the rear movement view is quite on par with the dial, retaining aesthetics set by none other than Kari Voutilainen in his last year’s collaboration with MB&F. The price is $52,000.
The Purnell Escape II Carbon brings the wow-factor to a whole new level. This lightweight 48x19 mm skeletonized monster rocks two triple-axis tourbillons – or ‘Spherions’ as the brand calls them – so it becomes a bit of challenge to look at the hour and minute hands. The cages make a full rotation in 8, 16 and 30 seconds respectively, and enchanted by such fast-spinning dance, one simply forgets to check the time.
Considering the huge energy consumption needs, the manually wound movement comprising six mainsprings assembled in four barrels and providing a 32-hour power reserve seems the engineering tour de force. As some tourbillon-lovers may know, among the creators was Eric Coudray, the guy responsible among other things for Gyrotourbillons at Jaeger-LeCoultre and last year’s MB&F LM Thunderdome. Of course, the watch is It highly customizable and super exclusive. The price justifies that statement starting at CHF 425,000.
Wrapping things up is crazy unique piece by Rebellion. Weap-One Diamond Asymmetrical Flying Tourbillon looks just like it’s name would suggests – otherworldly. While it’s surprisingly human sized titanium and sapphire crystal case measuring only 40x25 mm seems like a rare and welcome watchmaking virtue, we’re talking a sci-fi fish tank strapped to your wrist. Hours and minutes here are displayed by the two rollers on the sides while the center stage fully goes to the tourbillon.
On the one side this delicate construct makes a full rotation once a minute, on the other – once in 30 seconds, ensuring the viewers would be constantly hypnotized by the variety of its angles. Adding to the 2017 concept, some tourbillon cage parts are now made of diamond. Two symmetrical crowns take care of winding and time setting duties, while the movement provides a 50-hour power reserve. Sure, at this point of the game, pricing becomes almost an abstract thing, but keeping in mind the Rebellion Timepieces Weap-One Diamond exceeds a million dollar mark, still won’t hurt.
Aug. 01, 2020