This week the unofficial watchmaking capital of the world saw some seventeen brands presenting their novelties. As always, there were tons of interesting stuff, including few pieces you simply don’t want to miss.
The mighty Octo Finissimo Tourbillon Chronograph Skeleton Automatic is very likely the biggest news regarding all things extraordinary. Another year, another world thinnest record for Bvlgari, this time in a form of a monopusher chronograph tourbillon watch with an automatic winding, measuring only 7,4 mm thick. From both technical and design standpoints, the watch clearly stands up to the Octo Finissimo collection codes. Starting from the 42-mm sand-blasted titanium case complemented by the surprisingly comfy bracelet, and going all the way to the monochrome grey color scheme.
The dial is nothing short of stunning with an octagon-inside-a-circle structure and a nice symmetrical layout featuring a tourbillon at 6, small seconds at 9, and 30-minute counter at 3. The movement is obviously in-house and has a 52-hour power reserve. And the best part, it’s an equal feast for the eyes when in action, whether you are looking from the front or from the back. Production is limited to 50 pieces.
If we’d have to choose the only pleasant surprise of the show – again, there were quite a few – we’d name the fantastic Streamliner Centre Seconds from H. Moser & Cie. It’s a follow up to the flyback chronograph rocking our beloved Agenhor movement, its shape is inspired by some modernist trains from 1920-1930s, and so on. But the point is, it’s a luxury steel three-hander with an integrated bracelet that seems very original and beautiful at the same time. How’s that for a revelation?
Streamliner’s 40-mm cushion case as well as the bracelet obviously have some kind of love-it or hate-it attitude, that takes no prisoners. Paired with a trademark green fumé dial under a domed sapphire crystal, it’s clearly not the watch for everyone, yet it’s extremely attractive and full of character. Driven by an in-house automatic movement with a solid gold oscillating weight and a 3-day power reserve, the watch has enough splendor to showcase from the transparent caseback too. Last but not least, it’s quite sporty and everyday in concept, bearing in mind the 120-meter water resistance.
Talking of a more exotic domain, it’s hard not to mention the Louis Moinet Space Revolution. I mean, two tourbillons sharing a differential mechanism and dressed as a couple of space stations, and two spaceship figures, rotating towards each other, as if they were battling eighteen times per hour. You don’t see things like that everyday, right? And of course the whole dial – extremely black, we might add – mimicking the space emptiness is spinning too. The Space Revolution comes in round rose gold case measuring 43,5 mm in diameter. Its sapphire crystal dome acts almost as a fish-tank, providing multi-angle view of the dial. Apart from all this living and breathing theme-park, the in-house manually-wound movement with 48-hour power reserve drives a couple of central hands indicating hours and minutes. The overall production is limited to 8 pieces.
The virtual Evolution-of-the-year price goes to non other than the Ulysse Nardin Blast. Yes, at the first sight, this watch may seem a bit familiar, thanks to the central bridges forming a trademark rectangle in the center. But don’t be deceived, we’ve got not only a new caliber – in-house, of course – but a brand new case as well, available in different colors and materials including rose gold, ceramic, and titanium.
The skeletonized automatic tourbillon movement wound by micro-rotor looks delicious and sexy. Armed with silicon regulating organ and a 72-hour power reserve, it’s also very technically advanced. However, the true hero here is the case. Its multiple angles and differently finished surfaces feel unmistakably modern, yet very versatile in spirit. You can clearly see the rose gold version capable of some dressier situations. And not many complication packed 45-mm skeletons can do that.
Aug. 29, 2020