The rule of huge watches is finally coming to an end, or at least goes on a some kind of pause. Maybe the market has got enough, or maybe it is the demand of numerous asian customers, but the Swiss are already changing the long-running paradigm. So we’d better start getting used to the new norm testing the masculinity-depends-on-the-size rule along the way.

Table of contents

IWC Pilot's Automatic 36 mm 

Timeless design is not going to lose any charm, even noticeably slowing down at the waist. A clean masculine dial, an automatic caliber with the the hacking-second function, a steel case with additional magnetic radiation protection and an alligator skin strap, – what’s not to like? 

Breitling Navitimer 1 Automatic 38

Having grown thin to 38 mm as a part of a large revision of the entire brand catalog, the most famous Breitling piece has lost the chronograph registers, but acquired a very modern and somewhat more elegant appearance instead. The trademark features like the bidirectional bezel and the slide rule remained intact. 

Hublot Classic Fusion Bracelet Blue

Let’s face it, Hublot is strongly associated with large, bold and eye-catchy designs. At the same time the brand offers many watches in three or even four sizes. So in case you didn’t know: to enjoy all the delights of the Classic Fusion Bracelet Blue with the automatic caliber HUB 1110, you don’t need to have a Mike Tyson wrist. 

Glashütte Original Senator Excellence Panorama Date

The German brand never really tried to take the XXL segment by storm, and now that the pendulum of fashion trends has swung back, it does not even need to adapt. 40-mm case of red gold, highly decorated caliber with skeletonized rotor and silicone balance spring, and finally, blued hands on the background of the white dial – this thing oozes harmony and class. 

Rolex Datejust Ref. M126231

An ideal take for those ready to move away from the giant size, but saving as much visual wrist presence as possible. Even in the 36-mm case, the combination of steel, rose gold and a huge brand name will attract a lot of looks. While built-like-a-tank caliber 3235 with accuracy of - / + 2 seconds and one of the most convenient bracelets in the market will take care of the rest. 

Carl F.Bucherer Manero

Dressy classics with a technical twist. In addition to a small second and a traditional date window, the manufacture caliber CFB A2050 is equipped with a peripheral rotor spinning on the outer ring next to the bezel. Thus, the owner receives a watch with a self-winding and yet has the clean view of the operating and highly decorated movement through the transparent case back.

Nomos Autobahn

This polarizing piece has made quite a step away from the brand design codes. Large date aperture and central elements of the dial repeat the outlines of the car dashboard. It becomes especially obvious in the dark due to unusual luminescent markings. The 41-mm steel case is a big boy by the usual Nomos standards, but it certainly seems more than elegant next to most your standard divers or pilot watches. 

Patek Philippe Ref. 5205G 

An excellent example that with the proper skill one can put a serious set of complications in a case not larger than 40 mm. In addition to hours and minutes, the highly decorated caliber 324S is equipped with an annual calendar, a moon phase, and a 24-hour time display. 

The Seamaster 1948 Limited Editions

The anniversary reissue of the very first piece in the legendary collection can cause some happy smiles even among people who generally prefer the dressy designs to sporty ones. But do not let the vintage beauty-standards mislead you – inside this 38-mm miracle can boast of all the latest technical achievements of Omega from co-axial escapement to METAS chronometer certification. 

Montblanc 1858 Monopusher Chronograph 

An almost-dressy charisma, a deep smoky-green dial, and finally the movement with an old-fashioned mono-pusher chronograph function. And yet, first of all this is a pilot watch, clean, bold and no less expressive than their larger counterparts. 

Zenith Heritage 146 Chronograph 

To call this version of the famous chronograph bold or experimental is fundamentally wrong. After all, the design and dimensions of its 38-mm case are repeating the very first El Primero. The modern look is entirely brought by the brown dial with two minimalistic sub-dials instead of three classical ones. 

Panerai Luminor Due 3 Days Automatic Acciaio 38mm 

Those who deny the back-to-vintage-sizes trend were forced to think again when a heavy shot came from the brand, which in many ways has masterminded the fashion for 47+ mm in the late 90-s. And no, though the watch fits easily under the cuff, is not marketed as a ladies’ piece. Although if ladies are going to buy it in tons, the guys at Panerai will be even happier.