A flagship-level piece, combining a tourbillon, a perpetual calendar and the equation of time.
It’s always nice to see an old-school complicated mega-watch being this elegant and refined. For no matter how we adore the complex mechanical insides, the beauty of the exterior is somehow essential for sparkling a true feeling. And the new Breguet Marine Tourbillon Équation Marchante 5887 variation certainly has quite a punch in its aesthetics department. The slate-grey guilloched dial with inlaid Roman numerals perfectly fits the baroque-like 43,9 mm red gold case. As you’d imagine, there’s a lot going on in the front. Aside from hours and minutes, the watch has a complete set of perpetual calendar indications, including a retrograde date covering all the upper part of the dial, as well as the day of the week and month displayed through two symmetrical apertures at 10:30 and 1:30. An off-centered one-minute tourbillon, doing the small seconds’ job captures the eye in the lower part. The equation of time cam mechanism, making one revolution per year, is also visible in the tourbillon cage space. The difference between the mean time and the solar time is shown via an additional central minute hand. Finally, there’ a neat power reserve pointer accented in blue.
Of course, such complicated powerhouse needs a remarkable movement, and the self-winding caliber 581DPE with peripheral rotor and 80 hours of power reserve stands to all these expectations. Its impressive functionality is quite on par with generous decorations including a battle ship engraved on several bridges and the wind rose on the barrel – all visible through the transparent sapphire crystal caseback. While the Breguet Marine Tourbillon Équation Marchante 5887 has absolutely nothing to do with the sports segment – and even comes complemented by a brown alligator leather strap – it’s still fitted with a proper 100-meter water resistance. A nice extra touch by Breguet R&D indeed. The price is $215’000.
Mar. 30, 2020