A watch that started it all, gets some very clever design twists.
The very first piece of the boutique brand returns as a limited edition with a 44 mm platinum case, grey ceramic lugs, sapphire crystal movement bridges, and – as the company puts it – a silky translucent blue dial. Bearing the name of the XVIII century marine chronometer master Ferdinand Berthoud, the brand operates in the upper price haute horlogerie segment, resulting in quite low production figures. So a 5-piece total run somehow feels an appropriate number for FB 1.3-1 Sapphire Blue.
As you’d guess from the looks, there’s a lot of mechanical extravaganza going on here. The FB-T.FC-2 manually wound calibre is regulated by a centre seconds tourbillon as well as a fusee and chain constant force mechanism. And above all, every component has been fully hand-finished using traditional tools. The barrel is fitted with a Maltese-cross stop system, ensuring that only the most stable part of the spring is used. The arrow-shaped tourbillon bridge visible only from the caseback shines with a fresh blue color – thanks to the chemical vapor deposition treatment.
The dial layout features a thin central second hand, hours and minutes on a sub-dial at 12 o’clock, and the indication of 53-hour power reserve at 9. All this beauty is covered by a domed sapphire glass crystal. The Ferdinand Berthoud FB 1.3-1 Sapphire Blue comes on an alligator leather strap and is officially chronometer certified by COSC. The price is EUR 265,000.
Dec. 03, 2019